Towa – “I don’t sketch, I just make”.
Towa enjoying the view of bay area called Vinterviken, a stone’s throw away from her studio.
I meet up with Towa in an industrial area close to the water of the beautiful lake Mälaren in Stockholm. It’s November, nippy and the sun is laying low. I’ve admired Towa’s work over the years, so having the opportunity to pick her brains about her creative process makes me full of anticipation. A heavy steel door swings open, and Towa greets me with a big smile. She is warm and bubbly as we make our way up the stairs to her studio.
About
Name: Towa Wretlund
Age: 38
Family: Partner Jonathan, son Lasse, daughter Kicki*
Occupation: Silversmith
When did it all start?
I tried silversmithing for the first time in 2013 while living in Australia. I had a lovely teacher named Sally who was very encouraging. From the get-go I felt I had a knack for it. I guess you could call it a love story. I got myself a starter-kit when I moved back home, about a year after. It’s no big investment getting started, It’s absolutely possible to do it from home. Fast forward a bit and now I’ve had my webshop for eight years, which in retrospect is kind of crazy.
How does a typical day look for you?
There’s really no such thing as a typical day for me. Currently I’m juggling two jobs: one being silversmith, the other being a stylist and costume designer. It’s a perfect mix if you’d ask me. This spring, I will stand-in as a silversmith teacher for 15-year-olds.
On the days I’m in the studio, I drop-off my son at pre-school first thing, tidy up the studio, sorting out tools if it wasn’t done when I left the day before. I then make a to-do list for the day, plus a nice-to-have list in case things go quickly. I put on noise-cancelling headphones, play “Morgonpasset P3” (daily radio show) and get cracking.
Everything is “in the hands” when it comes to my work. In my creative process, there’s not many tricky passages or elements. I’ve never sketched beforehand. I just “do”, and I know by the physical sensation in my hands if I’m on the right track or not. I want the shape to be “felt”, if that makes sense? (forming shapes in the air with her hands). It’s never been a deal-breaker if the actual shape doesn’t turn out to be what I had in mind. Every old-school silversmith uses sketching as the first step of the process, a step you traditionally can’t skip. I, on the other hand, don’t have a certificate. I believe it has made me more free as an artist.
Is lacking formal education something you dwell on?
Not really. But in situations where I’ve thought about teaching or applying for a job, I’ve felt it’s been dragging me down a bit. But at the same time I’ve received so much support and encouragement from clients.
“There’s a type of meme circulating on social media, where small-business owners make a little dance every time they’ve sold something from their shops. It’s a bit cringey, but that goes for me too. ”
What kind of jewellry do you offer?
All kinds of jewellry in gold and silver. My starting point is to make pieces that I’d want to wear myself, and I like them to have a bit of weight to them. They should feel solid, substantial, and durable—something you can wear for years without getting tired of. The jewellry should just “tag on” for life.
Is there a typical “Towa Wretlund client”?
Most of my clients are women aged 25–50. Around 90 percent of clients are women. So whenever any of the 10 percent that are men get something for themselves, I’m even more happy. Clients are in no sense only concentrated to Stockholm – it’s a mix, I would say. Many clients are from Malmö (3rd largest city in Sweden) or Gothenburg (2nd largest), but also from smaller places. I also have a few regulars abroad. If you are a small-business owner, you don’t take having international clients for granted. There’s a type of meme circulating on social media, where small-business owners make a little dance every time they’ve sold something from their shops. It’s a bit cringey, but that goes for me too.
Print-screen from Towa’s Instagram page.
When do you feel your best?
When I’m getting up ahead of my family, lighting candles and prepping for a cosy morning. Another moment is straight after I’ve dropped off my son, taking the short walk to the studio, knowing I have a full day of creating where I don’t have to take anyone else's needs into consideration.
Are there any transformative moments that led you to silver smithing?
There are many events that both helped and shaped the path to where I am today. But I would say that the main reason I could go full-time was that I got a space at my ex-boyfriend's office for free. If I had to rent something, I don’t think I would have managed to take it to the next level. This profession has always required a lot of work on the side, but that chance gave me momentum. I also got a lot of support from him. There and then I decided to go give it my all.
Do you have any previous experiences that have helped you?
I have an education in fashion design and I have always sewn a lot, but I never thought fashion was all that interesting. In 2011 I got to know a costume maker and she took me on as her assistant. Among other jobs we worked on a kids show for Utbildningsradion (state radio known as UR) together. Nowadays I work solo and only do smaller PR assignments.
(Above) Towa showcasing some of her work. From left, Hilma, Wilma, “no name”, Wilma (again), and a customized piece.
How do you keep your creativity on a high?
Keeping your brain in work mode is important. I keep the creative spark alive by going through costume design stock and second-hand shops. You’ll never know when, or if, you’re going to stumble upon something interesting. If you’re lucky you’ll find an old earring that you can draw inspiration from. Creativity isn’t anything that is contained within the studio, it’s something that needs constant nurture. It’s uncomfortable when creativity lulls. But you just need to try something new. God knows, not everything you do will be golden (or silver), but that’s just part of the process.
Whenever I’m not in a good place mentally, my creativity goes down. I also make a lot of mistakes when I’m not at my best – I might cut my finger, for example. On the contrary, if I’m in a good shape mentally, my creativity tends to flow.
“It’s uncomfortable when creativity lulls. But you just need to try something new. God knows, not everything you do will be golden (or silver), but that’s just part of the process. ”
What does it take to succeed in the industry?
First off, being a freelancer can often be challenging. It depends on what you define as “success.” If we’re talking about sold units, I think you need to have a strong presence on Instagram. You need to be very active and update your website frequently—things need to be happening all the time. For a couple of years I did silversmithing full-time, but being on parental leave combined with some economic downturns made it un-sustainable. The demand for silver jewellery tends to come in cycles, and you can’t always expect an upward trend.
Since becoming a parent, there is someone more important than myself. That has put things into perspective, which I’m grateful for. I’ve been self-employed for so long, having full control over my schedule, but I welcome this change.
Do you schedule gathering inspiration, or does it “come to you”?
I don’t schedule it at all. I get the most inspiration when I’m working in the studio—when I’m “in” the material, that’s where I develop ideas. It often happens that I get completely lost in it, and I just have to pursue an idea that pops up. Before I had children, I could sit and work late into the night. Now I’m a bit more structured and put pressure on myself to be productive when I’m in the studio.
Are there people around you, or elsewhere, who’ve inspired you creatively?
In regards to silver-smithing — not really. I was raised on a farm outside Västerås, where I worked a lot with my hands. Having a strong grip came in handy there. My grandmothers were always baking and knitting, and I used to do a lot of weaving. I think growing up on a farm made me drawn to sturdy, honest materials. Rings should be heavy. Silver is after all a raw, elemental material that demands a lot of tools to shape.
What has it been like for you to find your own expression?
I think it came to me pretty early on. I’ve always loved organic forms—there has to be a certain simplicity to it. Chunky pieces are my thing. The jewellry I create should be intentional and easy to wear, but never boring. That’s really what defines my style—not necessarily a clear visual aesthetic, but a distinct shape. It should sit comfortably on you, and elevate your style.
How would your friends describe you—and do you agree?
They’d probably say I’m kind, loyal, and a good listener. I think so, anyway. I hope so (laughs). But they’d probably also say I’m quite no-nonsense—because when I decide to do something, I just go for it.
Do you have any other interests outside of silversmithing?
I love wine and food! And I really enjoy running, too.
Is there someone you look up to—and why?
I really look up to my mum. She ran her own business for over 30 years and made it through everything life threw at her. That’s probably where I got my work ethic from. She’s the kindest, most thoughtful person I know. She retired recently, so now she finally gets to rest after all those years of hard work.
I also look up to my friends—so many of them are grinding away in their own fields. One of them (@fannyswiatekschultz) lives in the countryside and works as a ceramicist. She photographs all her own pieces and just has such an incredible eye. She constantly inspires me to get better at what I do.
Favourite drink?
I’ll never say no to a chilled glass of Beaujolais.
Favourite movie?
I’m a sucker for period dramas. Either that or sci-fi.
Favourite book?
The Song of Achilles.
*Kicki wasn’t born when the interview took place